A winemaker I met - Martino Manetti - by Iro Cali-Corleo

On Tuesday 18th June, I had the pleasure to sit next to the well-known winemaker from Chianti, Martino Manetti and his good lady.  This was at the wine tasting organised by William and Daniel of Kontrada Wine Merchants with a principle tasting of four Montevertine wines chosen by Martino Manetti, all direct from his cellar and specifically chosen for this dinner.  These wines were paired by William to a multi-course menu by Chef Cliff Borg at the 1* Michelin restaurant Rosami. 

Montevertine is situated in Radda, one of the sub-zones of Chianti Classico, one of Tuscany’s prime areas for producing high-quality wines. The estate is particularly famous for its commitment to traditional winemaking practices and the production of exceptional Sangiovese-based wines. 

It was founded in 1967 by Sergio Manetti. From the outset, he aimed to make wines that deviated from the official regulations of Chianti Classico where he believed the antiquated requirements (for example the requirement to add white Trebbiano grapes with the red grapes ) negatively affected purity and quality.

His vision proved right as the DOC later replaced the outdated requirements but Sergio preferred to continue to label his wines “Vino da Tavola” (Table Wine) rather than seeking the Chianti Classico DOCG status. This decision was to maintain the freedom to experiment and produce wines in their desired style without being bound by strict appellation regulations.  His son Martino has promised his father to continue with this practice, a practice he too believes in.

The vineyards are planted at relatively high altitudes, contributing to the wines’ freshness and vibrancy. The terroir of Radda in Chianti is characterized by a combination of soil types, including clay, schist, and limestone, which imparts unique characteristics to the grapes grown there.  The primary grape variety cultivated is Sangiovese. In addition, small amounts of Canaiolo and Colorino, also traditional Tuscan red grape varieties, are grown.

The grapes are hand harvested and fermented in vitrified cement tanks with remontage carried out twice daily to keep the skins cap wet and encourage careful extraction of the tannins in the skins. Following this, the must undergo malolactic fermentation again in vitrified cement tanks and then be transferred to oak barrels and aged for 2 years following which they are bottled without filtering.

Montevertine’s most iconic wine is “Le Pergole Torte.” This wine is made exclusively from Sangiovese grapes and is considered one of the top examples of pure Sangiovese expression in Tuscany.  I had the good fortune to taste the 2013 and 2020 and discuss them with Martino.  Both he and his wife proved to be very entertaining and friendly and many stories were shared. 

The first wine we tasted was the Pian del Ciampolo 2019.  Martino introduced it as their simplest wine and intended to be suitable for all occasions. It is produced with Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino grapes from all their vineyards and is aged for a year in Slavonian oak barrels.   I found it to have a bright acidity and a very approachable personality with good body showing plenty of tart cherry, raspberry and wild plum.  All in all, a well-balanced wine I would enjoy quaffing at any time. Not surprised that Wine Advocate gave this wine 93/100

The second wine served to accompany Rosami’s delicious liver agnolotti was the Montevertine 2014.  Martino presented this wine as their mainstay fine wine and he showed visible pride when presenting it to the diners.  He explained how his father had produced the first bottles almost for fun as the property was purchased as a holiday home not as a business, the praise he received encouraged him to present them at Vinitaly where they met with great success and one thing led to another and now Montevertine wines are considered among the very best from Tuscany. 

2014 was a difficult but ultimately satisfying vintage in Tuscany.  A mild, wet winter led into a damp spring which failed to heat up. Although heat did arrive in the nick of time prompting a successful budburst and fruit-set, conditions quickly changed for the worst when a cool wet heavy summer set in.  A warm, sunny and dry September proved to be a saving grace with the good conditions lasting through to October and later-ripening varieties like Sangiovese generally performed the best, having taken full advantage of the Indian summer. 

Although as a result of the tricky growing season, the harvest was smaller than normal Montevertine still managed to produce wines of quality and this 2014 silky tannins and good acidity with plenty of the typical Tuscan cherry fruit character but it was more complex than that with notes of strawberries, raspberries and also floral scents.  In the mouth, it was very well-balanced and had a long and persistent finish. The average critics review was 92/100.

The last two Montevertine wines Martino presented to us were two vintages of his most awarded wine, the famous Pergole Torte, first the younger 2022 followed by the 2013.  Unlike the previous two, this was a 100% Sangiovese and as befits a top cuvée is only produced in great vintages.  It is first aged in large Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months and then racked into small French oak Allier barrels for the second 12 months of its elevage. 

On tasting the 2020 for the first time it was easy to see the similarity with the Montevertine 2014 and at first it was even a bit closed but, in the glass, it gradually expanded to intense dark cherry, blackcurrant, spice and violets.  On the palate it was rich with an acid attack that at first seemed too much but which quickly integrated with the tannins and fruit ending with great balance and purity with a polished and long finish.  Well deserving of the 96/100 critics score it enjoys.

The 2013 had even smoother, more polished tannins and was much more elegant, balanced and open at the start with notes of cherry, blackberry, blood orange and some anise and again violets.  It had a full  mouthfeel with the acidity, tannins and fruit in wonderful balance and complexity.  I could have drunk this all night.    It is not surprising that Martino considers this vintage as one he is proudest of and neither am I surprised that it was awarded a 98/100 by Robert Parker and an aggregate critics score of 97/100.

In conclusion a great evening and wine importers are encouraged to organise such meetings with makers.